Leg 6

It took a full day off the bike, but I finally shook the exhaustion from the last leg somewhere around cigar and whiskey hour last night. Feeling refreshed, upbeat, and having refound the ambition of the trip, I was up early today, eager to beat the crowds traversing Zion National Park.

Highway 9 through Zion is short, only about 35 miles of meandering and winding roads through the slot canyons of Zion, but if done early, it is a road that will take your breath away. Plus, it comes with a tunnel that is over a mile long and completely void of light. For the record, I did NOT attempt to hold my breath through this tunnel while operating a 800lb motorcycle. Just so we're clear.

As I left Zion, hitting Mt Carmel Junction right at 9 am, I could see the morning crowds waiting to enter the park stretch for a solid mile. Glad I left early. Southern Utah is sleepy, but not to be slept on. Highway 89 traverses southern Utah, finally heading south into Arizona just past Big Water and it is big, mostly empty, and beautiful.

As I passed Page, AZ, I entered the greater Navajo Nation. There's something ironic about passing towns with signs that read 'Established in 18xx' while sitting smack dab in the middle of indigenous territories who have inhabited the land for hundreds of years before any town was 'established'.

That said, another brilliantly spectacular part of this country. High mesa deserts, red earth, and dwellings dotting the landscape with nothing in between for dozens of miles. And, even though it was Arizona, the tempature stayed cool and comfortable.

However, the day was another tale of two parts. For all the beauty, serenity, and cool of the morning, the highway down from Flagstaff to Phoenix descended slowly into 105° F with each 1k feet of elevation lost, another 10° of tempature was gained.

By the time I reached Casa Nana, I felt like my skin was leather and I just needed a big red apple to be stuffed in my mouth so I could be served as BBQ. Thank god Grandma has a pool.

Phoenix will be as far south as this trip will take me. It also represents the approximate half way point of this trip. It's crazy to think that after just under a week, this classic American road trip is half over. Or maybe has only half begun. Glass full and all.

I'll spend another two nights here being properly pampered with home cooked food, time with Grandma and some cousins, and a LOT of time by the pool. Friday will kick off the long march home and, if I'm being honest, some melancholy knowing that my adventure is over its figurative summit and is heading down the pass towards its finality.